Wednesday, August 5 ｜8月5日，周三
Bodega Abad – The Only Winery We Visited in Bierzo 唯一探访的Bierzo 酒庄
We set off early this morning from O Barco de Valdeorras.
今天一早，我们从 O Barco de Valdeorras 出发。
Although O Barco Valdeorras (where we stayed last night) is already part of Galicia, our first stop today took us back to the Bierzo wine region. Scheduling winery visits in August is never easy, and we only managed to secure an appointment with Bodega Abad, but our hotel in O Barco had already been booked. Located near Ponferrada, it meant driving about half an hour east before continuing our journey west again.
其实O Barco Valdeorras已经是Galicia的子产区了，但今天的第一站却又回到了 Bierzo（比耶尔索）产区，这是由于8月酒庄时间难约，Bodega Abad是在我们确定了O Barco酒店之后才约上的，位于 Ponferrada 附近，已经一路向西的我们又往东开了半小时。
This was also the only winery during our trip that we successfully arranged to visit as an importer.
这也是我们这次西班牙之行唯一一家以进口商身份成功预约到的酒庄。
Many Spanish wineries close for holidays in August. Unlike in France, where cellar door visits are relatively common, smaller wineries in Spain generally do not have an established culture of receiving walk-in visitors. If you’re planning a wine trip, it’s best to visit during quieter periods when the winery is open and the team has more time to host guests.
西班牙很多酒庄都会在八月休假。相比法国，西班牙小型酒庄并没有成熟的接待cellar door客人的习惯，所以选择适当的时间（比如酒庄非休假且不忙的时节拜访）会比较好。
This year, the prolonged heatwave accelerated grape ripening significantly. Many wineries had already entered the busy pre-harvest period, with teams occupied monitoring grape maturity and preparing harvesting equipment. Even if someone was at the winery, they often had little time to spare for visitors.
今年又遇上持续高温，葡萄成熟时间明显提前，不少酒庄已经进入采收前忙碌的阶段。即使有人在酒庄，也忙着检查葡萄成熟度、准备采收设备，很难抽出时间接待来访者。
That made us feel especially fortunate to have secured this visit.
所以，这次能够约到酒庄，我们也觉得格外幸运。
Bodega Abad: Wines with Monastic Heritage 修道院葡萄酒
Today’s visit was to Bodega Abad.
今天拜访的是 Bodega Abad。
Located in the heart of Bierzo, this family-owned boutique winery is best known for producing wines from the region’s signature grape, Mencía.
酒庄位于 Bierzo 核心产区，是一家家族经营的精品酒庄，以当地具代表性的 Mencía 葡萄闻名。
The word “Abad” means abbot in Spanish. One of the winery’s flagship wines is named after the monastery, as part of its vineyards once belonged to a historic monastery. The winery continues to preserve and celebrate this heritage through its wines.
“Abad” 在西班牙语里意为修道院院长。酒庄的特色款即是修道院特酿，酒庄有一块地曾属于一座历史悠久的修道院，因此酒庄也延续了这段历史。
We were welcomed by both the export manager and the winemaker. Over a tasting, we discussed wine markets, consumer preferences across different countries, and how this year’s unusually hot weather had affected grape ripening.
出口经理和酿酒师一起接待了我们。我们边品酒边聊市场、不同国家消费者的喜好，以及今年异常炎热天气对葡萄成熟带来的影响。
One thing I particularly appreciate about Spanish wineries is their emphasis on food and wine pairing. Wine truly comes alive when enjoyed with local food. Laura, the export manager, prepared a selection of local cheeses, Cecina (air-dried cured beef), and a traditional empanada, which was absolutely delicious. Everything paired beautifully with the wines, making it a memorable tasting experience.
西班牙酒庄的特色，是非常注重餐酒搭配，酒要配着当地的食物才更有价值。出口经理Laura准备了奶酪，风干牛肉，还有特色的馅饼（这个非常好吃！），和酒特别搭，体验很棒。
Ponferrada: A Medieval Town on the Camino 朝圣之路上的中世纪古城
After leaving the winery, we headed to the nearby town of Ponferrada.
离开酒庄之后，我们来到附近的 Ponferrada 小镇。
It turned out to be far more charming than I had expected. If I ever return, I would definitely spend a night here.
这是一座比想象中更有魅力的小镇（如果再来，应在这里住一夜）。
Ponferrada lies along the famous Camino de Santiago. Since the Middle Ages, it has served as an important stop for pilgrims. The town’s most iconic landmark is the 12th-century Templar Castle, built by the Knights Templar, who were tasked with protecting pilgrims travelling through the region.
Ponferrada 位于著名的圣地亚哥朝圣之路（Camino de Santiago）上，自中世纪开始，就是朝圣者的重要补给站。城市最著名的，是十二世纪由圣殿骑士团修建的城堡。当时，圣殿骑士负责保护经过这里的朝圣者，也让 Ponferrada 成为了西班牙北部的重要据点。
Today, the old town still retains its medieval charm. Cobblestone streets, ancient churches, city walls, intimate plazas, and locals leisurely enjoying coffee all contribute to a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere.
如今，古城依旧保存着浓浓的中世纪气息。石板路、古老教堂、城墙、小广场，还有慢悠悠喝咖啡的人们，让这里多了一种不紧不慢的生活节奏。
As luck would have it, Wednesday is free admission day at the local museum, so we stopped in for a quick visit to learn a little about the area’s history and culture.
在 Ponferrada 小镇，正值星期三，博物馆免费，于是我们顺便欣赏了一下当地的历史文化。
Driving Towards Ribeira Sacra驶向 Ribeira Sacra 酒庄 – Bodegas Regina Viarum
Regina Viarum: Where Terroir Becomes an Experience
Regina Viarum 是一个把“风土”变成旅游体验的酒庄。
The winery itself is built into the landscape. Its beautifully designed visitor centre, constructed with oak barrel materials, showcases not only traditional oak barrels but also concrete eggs, clay amphorae, and other fermentation vessels, gently introducing visitors to the story behind the winery.
酒庄本身就是建在景观之中的。用橡木桶材料搭建的展示厅里不仅展示了木桶，还有水泥蛋、粘土罐等不同的酿酒容器，引领参观者进入酒庄的故事。
One of the things that impressed us most was that Regina Viarum is one of the few wineries in Galicia offering guided tours in English. Our guide, a tourism school intern, explained everything with remarkable clarity and confidence. Through her, we gained a much deeper understanding of Heroic Viticulture.
这是 Galicia 少有的有英文讲解的酒庄，讲解的小姐姐是旅游学校的实习生，但她的讲解深入浅出，一点也不怯场，让我们了解了当地特色的“英雄式种植 Heroic Viticulture”。
Heroic Viticulture refers to vineyards planted on extremely steep slopes, where machinery can barely operate and nearly all vineyard work must still be carried out by hand. The growers who cultivate these vineyards under such demanding conditions truly deserve to be called “heroes.”
所谓英雄式种植，是因为这里的葡萄园很多都建在接近垂直的山坡上，机械几乎无法进入，至今仍然依靠人工完成绝大部分工作。这些在艰苦条件下工作的酒农们，可谓“英雄”。
That is precisely why the wines here embody not only their terroir, but also the immense dedication and perseverance of the people who make them.
也正因为如此，这里的葡萄酒不仅有风土，更凝聚着无数劳动与坚持。
Another highlight is that after the tasting, guests are welcome to take any unfinished wine onto the winery’s spectacular terrace, where they can continue enjoying it while overlooking the dramatic mountain vineyards and the Sil River. It was one of the most memorable experiences of the trip.
I’ve always believed that wine only truly comes alive once you’ve seen the vineyards and stood on the land where it was born. Regina Viarum presents wine tourism exceptionally well, seamlessly blending modernity, accessibility, and commercial appeal with authentic history and terroir. It’s a model that many traditional boutique wineries could learn from.
值得一提的是，参观和品鉴完之后，我们可以带着没有喝完的酒，在酒庄绝美的露台上继续喝，享受山地葡萄园和 Sil 河畔的风景。这是绝佳的体验，我一直认为，葡萄酒，只有你看到了那些土地，那些藤蔓，才能真正感受到它的魅力。而 Regina Viarum 酒庄的葡萄酒旅游的呈现，把现代化、商业化与历史风土结合得恰到好处，可能也是很多中小型传统酒庄需要学习的吧。
Hotel Casa Reboiro
After our winery visit, we continued to Monforte de Lemos, the gateway to Ribeira Sacra, and checked into Hotel Casa Reboiro.
参观结束后，我们继续前往 Monforte de Lemos。Monforte de Lemos 是 Ribeira Sacra（圣河岸）最重要的门户城市。我们在城市附近的 Hotel Casa Reboiro 入住。
This is a quintessential Galician countryside hotel, surrounded by gardens, greenery, and peaceful rural scenery—a refreshing contrast to the bustle and uniformity of city hotels.
这是一家非常典型的加利西亚乡村酒店。没有城市酒店的标准化和喧闹，更多的是花园、绿地和安静的乡村环境。
The hotel also has an outdoor swimming pool. Rather than heading straight out for dinner after check-in, we spent some time swimming. The evening sun had softened, the temperature was perfect, and a little exercise made us appreciate dinner even more.
而且酒店还有一个露天泳池。Check-in之后，我们没有马上出去吃饭，而是先下水游了一会儿。傍晚的阳光没有这么热烈，温度也正好，适当的“运动”也更助于我们享受晚餐的美食。
Edulis Restaurante – We Decided to Dine in Town 还是决定进城晚餐
While searching for a dinner spot, we discovered that our hotel’s own restaurant was actually highly rated and popular with locals. However, it specialises in grilled meats—which we had already enjoyed the night before. Since we were in Monforte de Lemos, we thought it would be a shame not to explore the town centre.
在找晚餐餐厅时，我们发现其实酒店自己的餐厅在当地也颇受欢迎，评分也不错。只是，这家餐厅主打烤肉（前一天已经吃了烤肉），既然到了 Monforte de Lemos，还是进市中心看一下吧。
In the end, we chose Edulis Restaurante, located in Praza Campo da Compañía in the heart of Monforte de Lemos. Compared with the tranquil countryside atmosphere, the restaurant offered a more urban dining experience.
最后我们来到了市中心的 Edulis Restaurante。餐厅位于 Monforte de Lemos 的 Praza Campo da Compañía，整体氛围比乡村酒店更城市化一些。
The wine list was impressive, with a “Last Bottle” section that seemed particularly popular among diners. We selected a white wine from an independent winemaker, made from Treixadura and Albariño. It was beautifully round and full-bodied, pairing perfectly with the rich seafood dishes we ordered.
这里的选酒似乎不错，还有 Last Bottle 的选择，很多客人都选了这个选项。我们选了一款独立酿酒师的白葡萄酒，葡萄品种是 Treixadura 和 Albariño，酒体相当圆润饱满，和我们点的有点油脂感的海鲜非常搭配。
After a wonderful meal and a few excellent glasses of wine, we happily brought another fulfilling day to a close.
Travel certainly benefits from careful planning, but it doesn’t always have to follow a strict itinerary. Sometimes, the most memorable moments are the unexpected discoveries waiting along the way.
酒足饭饱之后，我们愉快地结束了这丰富的一天。旅行，需要提前安排，但也不是必要，即便没有，沿途也有不少惊喜的风景。
小杰与小吉——JZ World Travel 
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