Thursday, August 6 ｜8月6日，周四
Monforte de Lemos｜加利西亚内陆最重要的伯爵之城
Last night, we only caught a glimpse of Monforte de Lemos after checking in. Since we were leaving for Santiago de Compostela later today, spending the morning exploring its medieval old town was something we simply couldn’t miss.
昨天因为傍晚才 check-in，城市也只是看了个大概。因为在 Monforte de Lemos 只住一天，今天就要赶往 Santiago de Compostela，所以上午老城区的游览是在个中世纪古城不枉一行的必办事宜。
Compared with Galicia’s more famous destinations, Monforte de Lemos remains understated. Yet it was once the political and religious centre of the entire Ribeira Sacra region. The town spreads across a hillside, crowned by San Vicente Monastery, the Count’s Palace (Palacio Condal), and Monforte Castle, together forming the historic complex known as the Monumento del Monte de San Vicente.
相比热门旅游城市，Monforte de Lemos 显得低调许多，却曾是整个 Ribeira Sacra 地区最重要的政治与宗教中心之一。整座城市围绕着山丘而建，而山顶上的 San Vicente 修道院、伯爵宫（Palacio Condal）以及 Monforte 城堡，共同组成了当地著名的 Monumento del Monte de San Vicente。
Walking up the winding stone streets towards the medieval fortress, it was hard not to imagine that this had once been one of the most important noble strongholds in Galicia.
走在蜿蜒向上的石板路上，看着中世纪的城堡，这里曾经是加利西亚最重要的贵族领地之一啊。
The main castle has now been converted into a hotel, while beside it stands the Torre del Homenaje (Keep Tower), which is open to visitors.
主城堡现在是一个酒店，而城堡旁是保存至今的 Torre del Homenaje（主塔），对游客开放参观。
Built in the 13th century, the tower is Monforte’s most iconic historic landmark and was once the symbol of the Count’s authority. During the Middle Ages, it served not only as a defensive structure but also as the residence of the lord, a ceremonial venue, and a strategic lookout over the surrounding lands. Today, visitors can climb the restored stone staircase all the way to the top, where panoramic views of Monforte de Lemos await.
这座塔建于十三世纪，是 Monforte 最重要的历史建筑，也是当年伯爵权力的象征。中世纪时期，塔楼不仅承担军事防御功能，更是领主居住、举行仪式以及俯瞰领地的重要场所。如今经过修复，游客可以一路沿着狭窄的石阶登上塔顶。站上塔顶时，整个 Monforte de Lemos 尽收眼底。
Sil River Cruise | Seeing Heroic Viticulture from a Different Perspective
Sil河游船｜换一个角度认识英雄式葡萄种植
At one o’clock in the afternoon, we boarded the Sil River Canyon Catamaran Cruise.
下午一点，我们预约了 Sil 河峡谷游船（Catamarán del Sil）。
The pier is located just below Regina Viarum, the winery we visited the previous day. As we drove there, the dramatic canyon that we had admired from the winery terrace came back into view—only this time, we would be looking up from the river instead of down from the cliffs.
码头就在昨天参观的 Regina Viarum 酒庄附近，因此一路开过去时，昨天站在酒庄露台看到的峡谷景色，又重新出现在眼前。只是，这次是从下往上看。
Since we arrived early, we stopped at a nearby mirador on the way down. Standing there was a striking statue of a winegrower carrying a basket full of grapes while overlooking the entire Sil Canyon. It was erected in honour of generations of vineyard workers who have cultivated these impossibly steep slopes in Ribeira Sacra. Having just learned about Heroic Viticulture the day before, seeing this monument made me appreciate even more the people behind every bottle of wine. Both nature and human perseverance deserve equal respect.
因为到得比较早，下山的路上会经过一个 mirador，那里矗立着一座酒农雕像，背着一箩葡萄俯瞰整个 Sil 峡谷，这是当地人纪念世世代代在 Ribeira Sacra 陡坡上工作的葡萄种植者。昨天酒庄导览时刚刚听过”Heroic Viticulture（英雄式葡萄种植）”的故事，再看到这座雕像，突然觉得葡萄种植与酿造，自然与辛勤劳作的人，都值得尊敬。
Soon afterwards, we arrived at the pier and the cruise departed on time. Our guide spoke rapid-fire Spanish throughout the journey, leaving us feeling rather like we were listening to a monk chanting—completely mesmerised, but understanding almost nothing.
然后我们到了码头，游船准时出发。导游全程使用西班牙语讲解，语速飞快，我们基本处于”听和尚念经”的状态。
But sometimes, language doesn’t really matter.
As the boat glided into the Sil Canyon, towering granite cliffs slowly drifted past while terraces of vineyards clung to the mountainsides like giant green staircases. Looking back at the vineyards from the river offered a completely different perspective from the one we had enjoyed the day before.
There was, however, one small downside. A one o’clock cruise in August, under the midday sun, meant that even with the gentle breeze and our enthusiastic guide continuing his endless commentary, it was almost impossible not to become sleepy.
不过，有时候语言其实没有那么重要。船缓缓驶入 Sil 河峡谷，两岸高耸的花岗岩峭壁不断向后退去，一层层梯田式葡萄园紧贴山坡，远远望去像一幅巨大的绿色阶梯。在船上看昨天看葡萄园，又是完全不同的角度。只是 8 月下午 1 点的游船，尽管有风，但是即便再温柔的阳光一直打着，再加上敬业的西班牙导游 blabla，让人昏昏欲睡。
Lunch by the River | The Most Relaxing Simple Meal
河边午餐｜最舒服的一顿简餐
Although Galicia is cooler than much of inland Spain, the two o’clock sun in August was still intense.
八月的加利西亚虽然不像内陆那么炎热，但下午两点的太阳依旧晒得人头昏眼花。
By the time the cruise ended, we were both hot and hungry. With another two-hour drive ahead to Santiago, we decided to stop at the only restaurant near the pier for a quick lunch.
It turned out to be one of the day’s biggest surprises.
游船结束后，我们又热又饿。接下来还要开两个多小时前往 Santiago，于是决定就在码头附近唯一一家餐厅简单吃一点。没想到，却成了今天最意外的惊喜。游船结束后，我们又热又饿。接下来还要开两个多小时前往 Santiago，于是决定就在码头附近唯一一家餐厅简单吃一点。没想到，却成了今天最意外的惊喜。
The terrace overlooked the Sil River, where a gentle breeze instantly cooled us down. There were no elaborate presentations and certainly no fine dining—just a few simple local dishes, an ice-cold drink, and a peaceful riverside view. Somehow, that was exactly what we needed.
Moments like these often become the most memorable parts of a trip. Not Michelin-starred restaurants or internet-famous cafés, but the places you stumble into simply because you’re tired, hot, and hungry.
餐厅就在河边，露台正对着 Sil 河，微风吹过，气温一下子舒服了许多。没有复杂摆盘，也没有 Fine Dining。只是几道简单的当地料理、一杯冰凉的饮料，再配着河景，整个人瞬间放松下来。旅行里总会遇到这种时刻。不是提前收藏的网红餐厅，不是 Michelin，也不是必须打卡的地方。反而是因为累了、热了、饿了，随手走进的一家餐厅，却成为当天最舒服的一顿饭。
Heading Northwest | Driving to Santiago
一路向西北｜开往圣地亚哥
After lunch, we officially set off for Santiago de Compostela.
午餐结束，我们正式启程前往 Santiago de Compostela。
I put on a road trip playlist to help keep Jie awake while driving. As we cruised along the motorway through forests and rolling hills, the scenery couldn’t have been more beautiful.
我放了些 road trip 的歌，好让杰哥不至于睡着，车辆在山林间的高速公路上穿梭，风景极好。
Then, all of a sudden, a deer appeared by the roadside.
We’d seen plenty of wildlife warning signs before, but never actually encountered a deer crossing the road. Apparently, Spanish deer aren’t particularly afraid of cars.
Moments like this are a wonderful reminder of just how well Galicia has preserved its natural environment.
开着开着，前方树林边突然出现了一只鹿。以前我们看到公路上的野生动物出没的标志，却从没见过鹿儿出没，看来西班牙的鹿真的不怕死。这样的偶遇，说明加利西亚的生态保护做得相当好！
Arriving in Santiago | Finally Reaching the End of the Camino
抵达 Santiago｜终于来到朝圣终点
By early evening, we finally arrived in Santiago de Compostela.
傍晚时分，我们终于抵达 Santiago de Compostela。
As the final destination of the Camino de Santiago, this city has long been on the bucket list of travellers from all over the world.
作为圣雅各朝圣之路（Camino de Santiago）的终点，这座城市早已出现在无数旅行者的人生清单里。作为圣雅各朝圣之路（Camino de Santiago）的终点，这座城市早已出现在无数旅行者的人生清单里。
Knowing that parking in the Old Town is notoriously difficult, we chose a hotel slightly outside the city centre.
It turned out to be the right decision.
After checking in, we drove straight into town and, quite by accident, found a free parking space near a school. It was free in the evening, charged during the day, and technically reserved for school users only—one of those lucky little travel moments.
考虑到老城区停车困难，我们选择住在距离市中心稍远一点的酒店。事实证明，这是个正确的决定。办理入住后，我们立即开车前往市中心，幸运地在一所学校附近找到一个免费停车位——晚上免费，白天则需要收费，而且只给学校人士提供的车位，算是误打误撞捡了个便宜。
Santiago Old Town | The End of the Pilgrimage
圣地亚哥老城｜朝圣的终点
As soon as we entered the Old Town, the streets became older, narrower, and noticeably livelier. For the first time in several days, we were surrounded by crowds again—it almost felt like we’d finally rejoined civilisation.
走进老城区，石板路开始变得越来越古老，人也越来越多。可以说，是我们这几天以来，终于见到了大批活人。
Following the bustling streets, we eventually arrived at the heart of the city—the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
我们顺着闹市街道走到了整个城市的核心——圣地亚哥主教座堂（Catedral de Santiago de Compostela）。
One of Europe’s most important religious monuments, the cathedral is believed to house the remains of Saint James the Apostle.
这是欧洲最重要的宗教建筑之一，相传也是圣雅各使徒遗骸安放之地。
In front of the cathedral lies Praza do Obradoiro, where pilgrims who have completed their long journeys gather. Some lay quietly on the ground gazing up at the cathedral, others embraced with tears of joy, while many simply rested beside their backpacks. Even for those who hadn’t walked the Camino, the atmosphere was deeply moving.
教堂前的 Praza do Obradoiro（奥布拉多伊罗广场）聚集着徒步到达这里的朝圣者。有人躺在广场中央望着教堂发呆，有人激动拥抱，有人脱下背包，静静躺着，即使不是朝圣者，也很容易被这种氛围感染。
Walking around the cathedral, you’ll discover several beautiful squares.
Praza da Quintana, connecting the monastery and cathedral, has a completely different atmosphere by day and night.
Praza das Praterías features the cathedral’s oldest Romanesque façade.
Praza da Inmaculada (Azabachería) marks the traditional entrance for many Camino pilgrims.
Each square is modest in size, yet together they create one of the most captivating urban spaces in Spain. Although Santiago is profoundly religious, it never feels heavy or solemn. Instead, it offers a unique atmosphere where faith and everyday life have intertwined for over a thousand years.
围绕教堂漫步，还能经过许多著名广场。Praza da Quintana，连接修道院与教堂，白天与夜晚展现出截然不同的气氛；Praza das Praterías，拥有教堂最古老的罗马式立面；Praza da Inmaculada（Azabachería），则是许多朝圣路线最终进入教堂的方向。每一个广场都不大，却彼此相连，共同构成了圣地亚哥迷人的城市空间。这座宗教意味颇重的城市，却没有宗教带来的沉重，更多的是一种持续了千年的信仰与生活交织的氛围。
Dinner | Ending the Day with Arroz
晚餐｜用一锅 Arroz 结束一天
After wandering through the Old Town, we searched Google Maps for a highly rated restaurant.
Predictably, without a reservation, we were politely turned away.
Fortunately, the owner—clearly someone with excellent business instincts—told us she had another restaurant nearby that had only recently opened and still had available tables. To our surprise, we actually understood her Spanish and happily followed her directions.
逛累之后，我们在 Google 地图上找了一家评价很高且看起来不错的餐厅。可想而知，没有预订习惯的我们果然因为没有位子而被拒之门外。好在，热情的会做生意的老板娘跟我们说她还有另一家饭店，新开的，人没有这么多。我们竟然听懂了她的西班牙语，于是跟着她的指引去了那家新餐厅。
Less than five minutes away, we found the new restaurant. Located just outside the busiest streets, it wasn’t full, and several other diners had clearly been redirected there as well. The space felt fresh, modern, and comfortable, complete with a temperature-controlled glass wine cellar.
果然，走路 5 分钟不到就找到了新餐厅，因为在闹市区外围，所以没有满座，有几个和我们一样被引流去那里的游客。新餐厅装修看上去新了很多，也很现代很舒服，还有个恒温的玻璃房储藏葡萄酒。
We had been craving Spanish seafood rice throughout the trip. After doing a little research, we learned that in Galicia rice with big pan isn’t usually called paella—that’s a Valencian specialty. Here, locals refer to it as arroz con…, with a moister texture than traditional paella.
So we ordered a pan of arroz de marisco. Every grain of rice was infused with seafood and delicious umami soup. It was absolutely delicious and something I’d highly recommend.
之前我们就被各种餐厅的海鲜饭种草了，研究了一下，加利西亚的海鲜饭不叫 paella（paella 是 Valencia 的特色），而这里叫做 arroz con XXX，质地比较湿润。于是我们果断拔草了一锅热腾腾的海鲜饭 arroz de marisco。米饭吸满了海鲜和高汤的鲜味，非常推荐，让人觉得十分满足。
Day 4 Reflections
Day 4 小结
Today was all about nature and history. There were no winery visits, yet wine remained quietly present throughout the journey—from the stories shared during the river cruise to the landscapes shaped by centuries of viticulture. It reminded me that, in Ribeira Sacra, wine is not merely an industry but an integral part of the region’s culture and identity.
今天是自然和历史文化游览的一天，没有安排酒庄，却依然在路上，游船时被动接受着与葡萄酒息息相关的信息。看来，葡萄酒，已经深入成为当地的人文生活了。
From the medieval fortress of Monforte, to the heroic vineyards overlooking the Sil Canyon; from an unexpected riverside lunch to finally reaching Santiago de Compostela, the end of the Camino.
The pace of the journey slowed, following the plan while still leaving room for serendipity.
Because the moments we remember most are rarely the famous attractions themselves. They’re the unexpected ones: a statue of a vineyard worker by the roadside，a simple lunch with a river view, a deer darting across the highway, and finding an excellent dinner despite having no reservation.
从 Monforte 的中世纪城堡，到 Sil 河峡谷里的英雄式葡萄园；从河边随意走进的一家小餐厅，到终于抵达圣雅各朝圣终点 Santiago。旅行的节奏也开始慢下来。按照计划，但也留给偶然一些空间。毕竟，真正令人难忘的，往往不是攻略里的景点，是旅行中那些不经意的美好瞬间，不小心经过的酒农雕像，一顿意料之外的河景午餐，那只突然穿越公路的小鹿、以及没订位依然能吃到好吃的晚餐。
小杰与小吉——JZ World Travel 
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