小杰与小吉——JZ World Travel

Thursday, August 7 ｜8月7日，周五

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Rooftop Tour｜站上圣雅各大教堂的屋顶

来到Santiago de Compostela，当然不能只是站在广场仰望这座欧洲最重要的朝圣教堂。

When you arrive in Santiago de Compostela, simply standing in the square and looking up at one of Europe’s most important pilgrimage churches hardly feels enough.

今天，我们提前预约了 Cathedral Rooftop Tour，这是少数能够登上大教堂屋顶参观的行程之一，全程英文导览，名额有限，需要提前预约。

We had booked the Cathedral Rooftop Tour in advance, one of the few experiences that allows visitors to walk across the cathedral rooftops. The tour is guided in English, places are limited, and advance booking is essential.

老实说，导游有点令人失望。她是一位热情充沛的女士，只是英语介绍实在是不知所云，我们只能靠网络告诉我们比她讲得更好的历史文化知识补充。

To be honest, the guide was a little disappointing. She was incredibly enthusiastic, but her English explanations were, well, rather difficult to follow. In the end, we found ourselves filling in the historical and cultural background with information online—somehow, the internet explained it better than she did.

突然，我们怀念起昨天那位西班牙导游的讲解。虽然听得不是很懂，却被他的敬业所感动。

We suddenly found ourselves missing yesterday’s Spanish guide. We could barely understand what he was saying, but his professionalism and dedication had clearly made an impression on us.

不过，导游普通，景色却真的值回票价。

The guide may have been ordinary, but the view was absolutely worth the ticket.

沿着狭窄的石阶从教堂博物馆一路向上攀爬，真正站上屋顶时，才发现这座教堂远比在广场看到的更加壮观。

We climbed narrow stone stairways from the cathedral museum all the way to the rooftops. Only when we finally stepped onto the roof did we realize how much more magnificent the cathedral was from above.

走在几百年前工匠留下的花岗岩屋顶上，有一种“飞檐走壁”的感觉。

Walking across the granite rooftops built by craftsmen centuries ago felt almost like walking along the eaves of history.

脚下是发亮的石板，两侧是雄伟的塔楼和繁复的雕刻。抬头便是加利西亚湛蓝的天空，低头则是整个圣地亚哥老城的红瓦屋顶，以及广场上朝圣者们庆祝或休憩的别样风景。

Polished stone slabs stretched beneath our feet, with monumental towers and intricate carvings rising on either side. Above us was the deep blue Galician sky; below us, the red-tiled roofs of the old town and the pilgrims gathering, celebrating and resting in the squares.

从这里，也终于能够看清教堂真正的建筑结构。

From up here, we could finally understand the cathedral as a piece of architecture rather than simply a magnificent façade.

平时游客看到的是壮观的立面，而屋顶之上，可以看到这座大教堂历经数百年的沉淀。

Usually, visitors see only the spectacular façade. From the rooftops, however, you can see the layers of history accumulated over centuries.

让人不禁感叹，古人为了信仰，愿意花费比一生还长的时间，创造一些东西，而现代的人类，利益之上，只顾眼前，目光短浅——包括我们自己。

It made me think about how people in the past were willing to spend more than a lifetime creating something for a belief that would outlive them. Modern society, ourselves included, often seems much more concerned with immediate interests and short-term gains.

当我正在幻想自己是卡西莫多时，杰哥说，有时他希望能从事修葺教堂的工作，至少对社会、对历史有所贡献。能在世代传承的历史文化下，留下一些好的足迹。

While I was imagining myself as Quasimodo, Jerome suddenly said that he wished he could work restoring old churches—something that might contribute to society and history, leaving behind a positive trace within a cultural heritage passed down through generations.

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Catedral Museum｜一座城市的历史，从这里开始

Catedral Museum | Where the History of a City Begins

Rooftop Tour 的门票同时包含 大教堂博物馆（Museo Catedralicio）。

The rooftop tour ticket also included admission to the Catedral Museum (Museo Catedralicio).

相比一般宗教博物馆，这里的内容更加完整。

Compared with many religious museums, the collection here felt much more comprehensive.

除了大量宗教艺术品、雕塑、圣器之外，更完整介绍了大教堂从十一世纪至今的发展过程。

Alongside religious artworks, sculptures and sacred objects, the museum traces the development of the cathedral from the eleventh century to the present day.

馆内还能近距离欣赏许多建筑原件和珍贵宝物。

You can also see original architectural elements and precious objects at close range.

参观结束后，我们原本还想进入教堂内部。

After the museum, we originally planned to visit the interior of the cathedral as well.

结果教堂广场门口已经排起长长的人龙。一向不喜欢排队的我们果断放弃。

But there was already a huge line outside the cathedral. As people who have never been particularly fond of queues, we immediately gave up.

也给了下次再来的我们一个好借口。

Which, conveniently, gives us another excuse to come back.

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Mercado de Abastos｜午餐：计划赶不上变化

每到一个城市，如果有可能，必定会去城市的市场。那里通常有最地道、最好吃的食物。

Whenever we visit a city, we try to visit its local market whenever possible. That is usually where you find the most authentic food.

中午，我们来到圣雅各 Mercado de Abastos 市场。

At lunchtime, we headed to Mercado de Abastos, Santiago’s traditional food market.

这里是当地最大的传统市场，也是体验加利西亚饮食文化最热门的地方。

It is the city’s largest traditional market and one of the best places to experience Galician food culture.

新鲜海鲜、蔬菜、水果、奶酪、火腿、面包……几乎所有当地食材都能在这里找到。

Fresh seafood, vegetables, fruit, cheese, ham, bread—you can find almost every kind of local ingredient here.

比起马德里较为游客化的市场，这里倒像是真正卖菜的市场。

Compared with Madrid’s more tourist-oriented markets, this one felt much more like a genuine local food market.

中午开、晚上不开。市场里只有两排类似排档的地方可以坐下来吃东西，也有一些餐厅可以把你在市场买的食材加工后直接吃。

It opens during the day only. Inside, there are only a couple of rows of casual food stalls where you can sit down to eat. There are also restaurants that will cook ingredients purchased from the market for you.

只是，正值午餐时间，人潮实在太夸张。没有预订，几乎不可能入座。

Unfortunately, we arrived right at lunchtime—and the crowds were overwhelming. Without a reservation, getting a table was practically impossible.

所有餐厅都没有空位。

Every restaurant was full.

好在，我们在市场边上一家餐厅询问了一下。他们连接市场的部分供应一些小食和酒水，也已经全满。但这家很有生意头脑的餐厅决定提早开放对面同名的餐厅。只是，那里的菜单不一样，价格、环境和服务也会高一档。

Luckily, we asked at a restaurant next to the market. Its market-side section, which serves small dishes and drinks, was also completely full. But the restaurant had a clever solution: they decided to open their samely named restaurant across the street earlier than usual. The menu was different, and so were the price (higher).

这是一家米其林推荐的小餐厅。我们坐下后，餐厅也很快坐满。而餐厅最让我惊喜的，不是菜，而是酒。

It turned out to be a Michelin-recommended restaurant. Shortly after we sat down, the dining room was quickly filled up. But the biggest surprise was not the food. It was the wine.

可以说，这是整个旅途中，在餐厅喝到的最好的葡萄酒。

It was probably the best wine we had at a restaurant during the entire trip.

店里配有一位年轻的侍酒师。他不负责点菜，只负责点酒水。如果你不点酒水，他就去招呼别桌客人了。这种餐前先问“喝点什么”的饮食文化，令我非常羡慕。

There was a young sommelier working the floor. He did not take food orders—his job was simply to look after the drinks. If you weren’t ordering wine or other drinks, he simply moved on to another table. I admired this idea of asking what you would like to drink before discussing the food. I really wish we had more of this kind of dining culture in China.

这位年轻的侍酒师会用最简短的话推荐葡萄酒，并告诉你餐酒搭配。

The young sommelier made concise wine recommendations and explained the pairings.

只是，忙的时候，他向所有餐桌都推荐同一款酒。

When things got busy, however, he seemed to recommend the same wine to almost every table.

可是谁让他偏偏碰到了我们。

Unfortunately for him, he happened to meet us.

我不是很喜欢他向所有人推荐的那款酒。那款酒其实没什么毛病，就是有点普通。

I wasn’t particularly interested in the wine he was recommending to everyone. There was nothing wrong with it—it was simply a little too ordinary.

于是他又推荐了另一款，说那是他个人很喜欢的。

So he recommended another bottle, saying it was one of his personal favorites.

我一尝，果然不错。

I tasted it—and he was absolutely right.

菜的话，我们拔草了当地的特色——“鬼爪”，或者叫“鹅颈藤壶”。

As for the food, we finally tried one of Galicia’s most famous delicacies: percebes, commonly known as goose barnacles or “goose neck barnacles.”

杰哥有点反抗吃奇怪的东西。再加上他查了一下，发现这是一种生殖器比自己身体还长八倍的奇怪玩意儿！

Jerome was a little reluctant to eat something so strange. Then he looked it up and discovered that this bizarre creature supposedly has reproductive organs several times longer than its own body.

That did not exactly make it more appetizing.

不管怎么说，那一顿吃得还是很舒服的。

In any case, it turned out to be a very enjoyable lunch.

尤其是餐厅的“蓝番茄”色拉，让我们在之后的几天里爱上了这种当地特色的“蓝番茄”。

The highlight was actually the restaurant’s “blue tomato” salad. We loved it so much that we kept looking for these local blue tomatoes during the days that followed.

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Finisterra｜驶向世界尽头

午餐后，我们离开圣雅各，继续向西。

After lunch, we left Santiago and continued west.

由于时间有限，我们在Muxía和Finisterra之间选择了后者，因为车程更短——即使如此，来回也要三个多小时。

With limited time, we chose Finisterra over Muxía, mainly because the drive was shorter. Even so, the round trip still took more than three hours.

Finisterra（加利西亚语 Fisterra）**来自拉丁语 Finis Terrae，意为 “世界的尽头（End of the Earth）”。

Finisterra, or Fisterra in Galician, comes from the Latin Finis Terrae, meaning “the end of the earth.”

在古罗马时期，人们认为这里就是欧洲大陆的终点。大陆在这里结束，再往前，就是无边无际的大西洋。

In Roman times, this was believed to be the westernmost edge of the known European world. The land ended here; beyond it lay the vast Atlantic Ocean.

即使今天已经知道地球是圆的，这个充满浪漫色彩的名字依然保留至今。

Even though we now know the Earth is round, the romantic name has survived.

而对于许多完成 Camino de Santiago 的朝圣者来说，圣地亚哥并不是旅程真正的终点。

For many pilgrims who complete the Camino de Santiago, Santiago is not necessarily the true end of the journey.

他们还会继续步行约九十公里，来到 Finisterra。

Many continue walking for roughly another 90 kilometers to reach Finisterra.

可能只有站在“世界尽头”，看见太阳沉入大西洋，整个朝圣才算真正结束。

Perhaps only after standing at the “end of the earth” and watching the sun disappear into the Atlantic does the pilgrimage truly feel complete.

站在悬崖边，大西洋毫无保留地铺展在眼前。

Standing on the cliffs, the Atlantic stretched endlessly before us.

这里没有城市，没有港口，只有海和一座灯塔。

There was no city, no harbor—just the ocean and a lighthouse.

路上有个石碑，可以看到象征朝圣终点的公里标志。

Along the way, we found the famous marker indicating the end point of the pilgrimage.

过去，不少徒步者会把一路穿坏的鞋子留在这里，甚至点火烧掉，象征告别过去、迎接新的开始。

In the past, some pilgrims left their worn-out shoes here, and some even burned them as a symbolic farewell to the past and a way of welcoming a new beginning.

如今为了保护环境，这项传统已经被禁止，但“世界尽头”依然保留着属于朝圣者的仪式感。

Today, the practice has been banned for environmental reasons, but Finisterra still carries that unmistakable sense of pilgrimage and ritual.

这里同时也是著名的 Costa da Morte（死亡海岸） 的一部分。

This is also part of the famous Costa da Morte—the Coast of Death.

名字听起来有些可怕，其实源于过去这里海流复杂、暗礁密布，历史上发生过无数沉船事故，因此得名。

The name sounds ominous, but it comes from the area’s dangerous currents, rocky reefs and long history of shipwrecks.

而今天，它却成为西班牙最壮丽的海岸线之一。

Today, however, it is regarded as one of Spain’s most spectacular stretches of coastline.

我们中午吃的“鬼爪”，就是死亡海岸的特产。

The goose barnacles we had for lunch were also a specialty of this very coast.

我们在灯塔旁一个小酒馆小坐了一下，看着一对麻雀不惧人类，悠然地在桌子上觅食。

We stopped for a drink at a little tavern beside the lighthouse and watched two fearless sparrows casually feeding on the tables around us.

突然觉得，人与自然界一直这样安然、幽静地相处下去，是多么和谐。

For a moment, it struck me how beautiful it would be if humans and nature could always coexist with this kind of quiet harmony.

悠闲的下午，告别圣雅各的喧嚣，在海边感受心旷神怡。

It was a slow, peaceful afternoon—leaving behind the bustle of Santiago and finally feeling like we were truly on holiday.

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Casa Marcelo｜今晚，不吃传统加利西亚菜

Casa Marcelo | Tonight, No Traditional Galician Food

傍晚回到圣雅各。

We returned to Santiago in the evening.

今晚，我们预约了当地著名的米其林一星餐厅 Casa Marcelo。

That night, we had a reservation at the renowned Michelin-starred Casa Marcelo.

因为回来得比较早，我们又尝试去大教堂门口看看。

Since we arrived early, we decided to try the cathedral again.

排队的人依然很多。反正时间还早，我们想排排看。

There was still a huge line. Since we had time, we thought we might as well join it.

结果排了五分钟，队伍一动都不动。

Five minutes later, the line had not moved an inch.

于是我赶往门口探了一下究竟，竟然发现教堂门是关的，也没有任何告示告知开门时间，更没有工作人员放人进教堂。

So I went to investigate and discovered that the cathedral doors were actually closed. There was no sign explaining when they would open, and no staff letting people inside.

原来，人们在完全不知道情况的情况下，傻傻地跟着人群排着一条无意义的队。

Apparently, everyone was simply following the crowd without knowing why they were queueing.

看来，“从众”或者“想当然”的固定思维，在任何国家、任何世代都没有什么好处。

It was a good reminder that blindly following the crowd—or simply assuming that something must be right because everyone else is doing it—is not particularly useful in any country or any generation.

于是我们逛了逛古城，买了些纪念品，差不多时间便去了 Casa Marcelo。

So we wandered through the old town, bought a few souvenirs, and eventually headed to Casa Marcelo.

餐厅由主厨 Marcelo Tejedor 创立，是当地最具代表性的米其林餐厅之一，以融合加利西亚食材与日式料理理念而闻名。

Founded by chef Marcelo Tejedor, the restaurant is one of the most representative Michelin restaurants in Santiago, known for combining Galician ingredients with Japanese culinary ideas.

我们被安排在板前，可以看到整个厨房团队的工作。

We were seated at the counter, where we could watch the entire kitchen team at work.

这也是餐厅主理人认为客人看得见厨房才是好的体验。

It is very much part of the restaurant’s philosophy: being able to see the kitchen is part of the dining experience.

从入座到上菜，整个服务流程试图做到米其林的水准。

From seating to service, the restaurant clearly aimed for a Michelin-level experience.

但是，讲真，比起法国的米其林，还是差了一截。

But honestly, compared with Michelin restaurants in France, it still felt like it was missing something.

上的每一道菜并没有被仔细介绍。

The dishes were not explained in much detail as they arrived.

当然，仅仅作为一星，服务也不是评价的唯一标准。

Of course, at one Michelin star, service is not the only measure of a restaurant.

但是，价格却已经足以媲美法国的二星，甚至个别三星。

Still, the price was already comparable to some two-star and even a few three-star restaurants in France.

可能是我太过挑剔了吧。

Maybe I am simply too demanding.

不过，日式技法并没有掩盖加利西亚食材本身。

That said, the Japanese techniques never overwhelmed the Galician ingredients themselves.

主厨让风味更加细腻、干净，融合得不错。

Instead, they made the flavors more refined and precise. The fusion worked well.

对于西方客人来说，一定是很讨喜的。

For Western diners in particular, I can imagine it being extremely appealing.

可是这家店的选酒有点一般。

The wine selection, however, was less impressive.

酒单上杯卖的选择很少。我们想点一杯酒单上的橘酒，侍酒师却说没有。

There were very few wines available by the glass. We wanted to try an orange wine listed on the menu, but the sommelier told us it was not available.

更多的是当地大品牌的酒。

The list leaned heavily toward larger local producers.

而且侍酒师疯狂向我们推荐一款葡萄牙的酒。

The sommelier was also very enthusiastic about recommending a Portuguese wine.

可是作为游客——而且这家餐厅的大多数客人应该也都是游客——不是应该更希望喝到当地风土的葡萄酒吗？

But as visitors—and I imagine most of the restaurant’s guests are visitors too—wouldn’t we naturally want to discover more of the local terroir?

可能那位侍酒师叔叔是葡萄牙人？

Perhaps that particular sommelier happened to be Portuguese?

突然觉得，中午 Mercado 旁那家不起眼餐厅的菜和酒，简单但有品质，更让我印象深刻。

Suddenly, the unassuming restaurant next to Mercado de Abastos seemed much more memorable to me. Its food and wine were simple, but genuinely good.

因为，在写这篇文章的当下，我竟然已经记不得 Casa Marcelo 那天那些菜到底有多好吃。

As I write this now, I realize I can barely remember how delicious the individual dishes at Casa Marcelo actually were.

有时候，一家餐厅最难忘的，并不一定是星级。

Sometimes, what makes a restaurant unforgettable has nothing to do with its stars.

而是那个真正懂客人的服务者。

It is the person who truly understands the guest sitting in front of them.

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Day 5 小结

Day 5 in Review

今天，没有走访任何酒庄。

Today, we did not visit a single winery.

却依然是围绕着美食、美酒、历史和文化的一天。

And yet, it was still a day completely shaped by food, wine, history and culture.

从圣雅各大教堂的屋顶，到 Mercado de Abastos 的午餐，再一路驶向 Finisterra 的“世界尽头”，最后回到米其林餐厅 Casa Marcelo。

From the rooftops of Santiago Cathedral to lunch at Mercado de Abastos, from the “End of the Earth” at Finisterra to dinner at Michelin-starred Casa Marcelo.

这一天没有酒庄，却依然很“酒乡”。

There was no winery today, but somehow, it still felt very much like a day in wine country.

充实的一天。

A full, memorable day.